Is Food No Longer What Makes a Great Restaurant Great?: Review

It’s become a well-documented fact that people dining out want a memorable experience, whether it’s eating in a fashion boutique or having an AI-chef prepare your meal. But the full-on obsession with spectacle had not been so apparent to me until a recent dinner at the world-renowned Eleven Madison Park in New York City.

It started with a potato.

The spud was wheeled on a cart through the dining room, as if it were a stolen gem from the Louvre, in a tagine-like vessel designed by the artist Rashid Johnson. Now by my table, I could see the potato had been cut into dozens of ...