Can Cash Still Make You a King?: Howard Chua-Eoan

I arrived hungry but with some anxiety at The Yellow Bittern on Caledonian Road, not far from St. Pancras Station. The small restaurant — seating about 16 diners — had been open for less than a week. From the street it looked like a bookstore, befitting its name, which is taken from a three-century-old Irish poem. The place is run by Hugh Corcoran, the Belfast-born chef who’d made his reputation cooking in France and Spain. I wasn’t nervous about the food. I’d had his game stew and a sumptuous dish of tripe a year ago at a pop-up in Dalston. But there was a twist to ...